Where else in the world can you stay the night in an authentic courtyard complex with its own temple stage building? How many guest houses have you previously visited where the doors of the rooms are locked shut not with digital key cards, but traditional wooden crossbars? In how many hotels can you hear the gentle braying of donkeys and scurrying of squirrels across the roof, rather than your neighbors TV, aggressive car horns and interminable scooter alarms?
The Old Theatre Inn is not only a fabulous listed building, but a much needed retreat from China's breakneck 'development', and at mealtimes it becomes a foodies' paradise to boot. The converted schoolhouse building has just five guest rooms, each with a cosy western en suite, a small, private patio at the rear, and large clerestory windows to soak up that warm winter sun. Alongside this is a main dining area, where guests can sample the very best in Bai cuisine as well as yummy western comfort food, including fresh apple cobbler, quince and fig cheesecake and homemade walnut bread.
The centerpiece is the temple theater building, fully restored as part of the SRP project. The ground floor is storage space for mountain bikes, so that visitors can head off and explore the valley, while there are often calligraphy classes given in English by the current owner Wu Yunxin, on the first floor. This leads out to the stage area, where the traditions of Bai music are being revived, and local elders perform for visiting dinner guests. Up on the top floor, the blue skinned god of culture and learning poses gymnastically, clutching a fine lettering brush and a Chinese 'yuanbao' gold ingot. Writers and artists of all nationalities return to this spot, claiming that this building is a focus for intellectual pursuits, and provides them with an inspiration that is difficult to find almost anywhere else.
With its expansive views across the rice fields, this is the ideal location to relax on the front terrace with a Yunnan coffee, and watch the sun sink slowly behind the Hengduan Mountains. Despite the intricately carved construction, the hefty sandstone flagstones and the bucolic rural location, the Old Temple Theater has all the mod cons needed to keep city folk happy. Twenty four hour wireless Internet, a locally born owner that speaks both English and French, and private car pick ups, all mean that guest comfort is in no way compromised by the tranquil, rural setting. Guests from all over the world repeatedly confirm that a visit the the Old Temple Theater is a once in lifetime experience, and one which many are unsurprisingly reluctant to conclude.
Best of all, this is an excellent base to explore the temples, groves and orchards that favor Duan Village. From a gentle stroll up to the waterfalls, to a strenuous four hour hike to the nearest mountain Yi Village, this area caters to the needs of even the most accomplished hikers.
A favorite of China adventure travelers in the know, the Old Theatre Inn (formally Dragonfly Guest House) is a rarity in China these days: a peaceful oasis amidst expertly preserved cultural heritage. The owner, Mr. Wu Yunxin is a local English teacher who helped restore this 18th Century community theatre, and turned the caretaker's quarters into five simple guestrooms. Enjoy simple and delicious home cooked meals by his wife, Mrs. Duan, served by their teenage daughter Lucy (when she's not in school).
Just steps to the Hei Hui River and scenic village tours, the Inn is perfectly located above the rice fields of Shaxi Valley and within a 15 minute bike ride to Shaxi old town.
Phone: +86 872 472 2296
email: reservations@shaxichina.com
>> Inquire directly for guaranteed best rate, no credit card information required
The Li Family courtyard in Xia Ke Village is a spacious, sunny home with accommodation for up to 26 people in 5 rooms. The husband and wife still live here, among bonsai plants, fruit trees, cows and chickens. The Xia Ke Village is friendly and traditional, with rammed earth houses and gardens, with streams criss-corssing the fields. The Li Family home is on a small stone street and features WiFi, a spacious kitchen for preparing all-day meals, outside shower and toilet facilities and solar hot water.
Visit our Reservations page or scroll to the bottom of this page for inquiries on arranging accomodation with this family.
Tucked away around the corner from the Temple Stage is the ever popular Horse Pen 46 hostel. The stalls around the courtyard have been converted into a selection of dorms and simple rooms, and have quickly become famous for their soft comfy beds, despite being a little spartan otherwise. The English speaking owner, Shirley is a mine of local information and can organize everything from rock climbing to river rafting. She is assisted by three lovable canines who will quickly change your opinion about Chinese dogs. Ask about the guided hikes that are organized by the owners every Saturday. >> Book now
Laomadian hostel (literally 'Old horse Inn) is owned by a Taiwanese investor, who has also restored impressive properties in Lijiang and Shangri La. Rooms here remain as authentic as possible (albeit with modern bathrooms) to the original caravanserai that also now doubles as a restaurant, with quality food being served to discerning tourists. The nine rooms and at least four wells that are located in the one hundred and fifty year old complex of two extended courtyards, give a fascinating insight into the accommodation that would have been used by the caravan leaders of days gone past. Even the original cabinets that the horsemen slept atop to protect there personal belongings, can still be seen here. >> Book now
Just up the Alley from the square is the Number 58 Yard Hostel, slightly more oriented to domestic tourists, but comfortable and welcoming all the same. Again there are dorms as well as private rooms and a large deck area above the courtyard, that is great for socializing in the evenings. Even if you do not stay here, be sure to try the beautifully presented matsutake mushroom fried rice for lunch. >> Book now