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关于沙溪

土地和人民

Shaxi china tazi hui - shaxi old town yunnan china


沙溪亮点

石宝山
shaxi-shibaoshan

石宝山位于沙溪北方10公里处,是国务院首批公布的全国44处重点风景名胜区之一,是大理风景名胜区重要的组成部分。石宝山又名峰顶山,海拔3628米,东西跨距7.7公里,南北跨距2.45公里。由照壁山、大黑山、石宝山等三个主山峰组成。山中建有玉皇阁、太子阁、水云居、石宝寺等殿宇。石宝山为丹霞地貌,球状风化石形成的奇峰异石如钟、如箭、如狮、如象,高者成崖,错落有致,别具一格。石钟山分布在石钟寺、狮子关、沙登村三个地区,系南诏时期白族所创造的艺术瑰宝,也是云南现存规模最大、保存较完好的石窟群,是国家第一批重点文物保护单位,共有16窟浮雕造像139躯,为南诏、大理国时期的雕刻艺术,距今已有一千多年历史。在我们的网站上有一个关于 石宝山的专页面。

沙溪古镇
shaxi-ancient-town

在如今这个远途航班和高速列车充斥的年代,很难想象,将沙溪与外界连接起来的第一条柏油公路竟是在2009年才建成。在如今的沙溪,很多地方仍在使用鹅卵石铺成的古老道路,但寺登村新修建的道路极大的缓解了交通不便的情况。这里如同一扇时光的窗,轻轻推开,便可以瞥见那早已消逝的古老中国的南方小镇。 在我们的网站上的 沙溪古镇专页面可以看得更多。

沙溪集市
shaxi-friday market

周五的集市是不得不看的重头戏,届时大家都带着各种货品聚集到古镇,或是做些买卖,或干脆只是聚在一起闲聊。身着传统的白族服饰的妇人们在道路旁排成长长的一排,售卖着自己里种植的各色本地蔬菜。彝族妇女身着鲜艳的大红色,或是大绿色,乘坐数个小时的牛车,从山上赶到这里来做生意。这恰恰使得沙溪周五市场拥有整个云南最具色彩和画面感。
街道的左边是肉类市场,在这里你不光可以买到新鲜的肉食,还可以找到新鲜的山羊奶酪,匠人手工打造的牛铃铛、马具。在市场的右手边你可以看到一排排的本地特色蔬菜和水果,泽芹、莲子、木瓜、释迦果,因有尽有。流动商贩带着各种农具或是果树苗,填满了整个市场。噢,别忘了去看看牲畜交易市场,那里有小猪,羔羊,甚至是水牛在出售。

本地生态
shaxi-village life

随着时代的进步,茶马古道也日益衰败,马匹和骡子已经不再是最重要的家养牲畜。以段家登村为例,以前每家每户都养驴养马,用来进行繁重的田间工作,现在却已经很少有人在养牲口了。在山区的居民则养山羊,不过如今已经有人意识到这里纯净的环境和优良的牧草正适合投资奶牛。植被繁茂的山区里有很多的野生动物,石宝山自然保护区内可以见到众多的鸟类,滇䴓和凤头鹦嘴鹎在这里很常见,而更有耐心的观察者有机会看到点胸鸦雀和美丽的丽色奇鹛。棕松鼠活跃在这边苍翠的树林中,这里极佳的生存条件使它们一年可以繁衍两次后代。你可以看到充满警觉的松鼠夫妇带着它们三或四只冒失的小松鼠,在橡树林中窜上蹿下。

沙溪慈荫庵
shaxi-temple-ceremony

Known locally as 'Ci Yin An' 慈荫庵 (Temple of Sheltered Mercy), this breathtaking multi-level temple complex, commanding spectacular views across the valley from its vantage point at the head of Diantou Village, was actually a functioning nunnery until the religious purges of the 1960's. The series of shrines, halls and kitchens were recently restored by American designer Chris Barclay, builder of Yangshuo Mountain Retreat and Yangshuo Village Inn in Guangxi Province. Expert local craftsmen were bought in to preserve the original structures through traditional building techniques and showcase their incredible carpentry and stone-masonry skills. Surrounded by some of the last remaining old growth pear trees, the Pear Orchard Temple now boasts an award-winning vegetarian restaurant, Pear Blossom Organic, as well as cooking classes led by temple chef Madame Yang.

洞经古乐
shaxi-music show

The unique Dongjing Guyue 洞经古乐(“Aancient music from the cave) is a fading musical tradition in the Bai and Naxi areas of Northern Yunnan. Performed by an ensemble of eight men and played mainly on erhu (two-stringed cellos) and percussion, the music tells stories of the Dali region. Currently in Shaxi there are still a few village ensembles consisting of elderly men who still perform. Mainly performing during local festivals, one group can be heard some evenings at the Xi Lu restaurant in Shaxi Old Town and another in Duan Village, performing on the ancient theatre temple stage at Old Theatre Inn

白龙潭
shaxi-bailongtan-spring

白龙潭位于山谷的最南端,跨过古老的石鳌桥,登上山脊便可到达。这片古老的树林生机盎然,为当地村庄送去甘甜的泉水,养育着这里的人民。古老的橡树和玉兰形成一个天然的漏斗,长久的冲刷使得树枝刚刚好临于水面之上。这片树林是当地人的圣地,传说有一条白龙生活在这里,源源不断的给人们喷涌甘甜的泉水,所以人们经常会来这里祭拜。

虽然这里只有一个小小的神社,但是白龙潭对于骑马和徒步者就像是一扇大门。往北,沿着溪水旁生长着大量的柿子树;向南则是低矮的灌木果树,环绕溪谷。在这里,山坡上满是茂盛的藤蔓植物,平坦的地方生长着青青的牧草,这里或陡峭、或平缓的山路适合所有不同需求的游客。


民族节日

石宝山歌会节
shaxi-festivals

石宝山的神奇体验

白族剑川石宝山歌会每年农历七月末尾三天,本地以及周边各地的白族青年数万人,不约而同地会集到石宝山的石钟寺、宝相寺、海云居、金顶寺的满山遍野里,甚至在肃穆的神像面前,身着最美丽的衣裳,弹唱白族情歌。歌会期间便成为专为歌会服务的集市,摊贩云集,各色小商品琳琅满目,尤以各种风味小吃和地方特产最盛,为人们的休闲娱乐提供了极大的方便,也烘托着浓浓的节日气氛。入夜,街场变成了篝火晚会的会场,青年男女耍起石宝山特有的“香龙”,跳起霸王鞭舞,来自各地区的游客也纷纷争相献艺,欢歌笑语,汇成一片欢乐的海洋。

太子会
shaxi-prince-festival

太子会是云南省大理州剑川县沙溪古镇传统的民俗活动,每年农历二月八,这里都要举行盛大的民间宗教活动,俗称 为“太子会”。到时候,男女老幼披绿挂红,从八方云集到大理剑川沙溪兴教寺和四方街,抬着太子、佛母的神像举行游行庆典,锣鼓队、佛教队、道教队、洞经乐队等轮番登场,再加上古戏台上表演的大戏,寺登街上人声鼎沸,舞乐连天,灯火绵延,通宵达旦。

火把节
shaxi-temple-fair

火把节:农历六月二十五日。节庆期间,各族男女青年点燃松木制成的火把,到村寨田间活动,边走边把松香撒向火把照天祈年,除秽求吉;或唱歌、跳舞、赛马、斗牛、摔跤;或举行盛大的篝火晚会,彻夜狂欢。人们还利用聚会之机,进行社交或情人相会,并在节日开展物资交流活动。

 


   小数民族

白族

Occupying the region for at least 3,000 to 4,000 years, the Bai are the second-largest minority group in Yunnan, as well as being one of the oldest. The 2000 census identified just over 1,800,000 individuals as Bai and speaking the Bai language, 80% of whom live in the Dali Bai Nationality Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan Province. In Guizhou, the Bai can also be found in Bijie, and in Sichuan they live near Xichang. Throughout their history, the Bai have dominated by controlling the richest agricultural lands, either administering the region for others or ruling outright through a number of prominent families. Scattered throughout the Shaxi valley are sixteen Bai minority villages. The population of these villages ranges from a couple hundred to a few thousand in the main village of Sideng, with about 22,500 for the entire valley.
Shaxi retains the vestiges of a matriarchal society, but in the twenty first century, this now extends only as far as children taking the family name of their mother. The Bai—the "white"—revere the color, which they regard as noble and is the main color of their traditional dress. An unmarried girl always combs her hair into one pigtail, tied with a red string at its end, and then coils it over her head. In general, girls enjoy dressing up like beautiful camellia flowers on special occasions, and so it is hardly surprising that they are referred to not as 'miss' or 'young lady' but as 'jin hua' or 'golden flower'.


Bai Religion

白族是一个具有多元宗教信仰的民族,人们信奉佛教、道教及本主信仰。其中本主信仰是白族全民信奉的宗教。本主一词的含义是“本境最高贵的守护神”。本主大致可分为自然神、部落神和英雄神三类。自然神大多是与农业生产有关的雨神、龙王、龙母等。英雄神中,很多是同野兽搏斗,为民除害的英雄人物。你可以在很多神社中看到制作简单的,骑着猛兽的英雄人物。至于部落神,各地供奉的十八堂本主、七十二景帝等,几乎都是南诏、大理时期的君主或宰臣。
在较为偏远的地区,仍有一些白族保持着万物有灵的原始信仰,你可以找到各种不同的神祇被人供奉:山神、谷神、雨神、龙王、龙母等等。他们相信精神力量可以治愈疾病、并且给予他们庇护。在沙溪目前仍有有女性的巫师,在白族的精神生活和信仰中扮演着重要的角色。

文成

公主的传说: 传说唐太宗李世民为了加强与吐蕃的同盟关系,派遣宗室女文成公主从唐朝都城西安,出发前往吐蕃,与吐蕃王松赞干布联姻。与文成公主随行的马队携带着大量的礼物,其中包括释迦佛像、各种珍宝、金玉书橱、360卷经典等,而其中大量的普洱茶则是我们最感兴趣的部分。同许多唐代贵族一样,文成公主是一位佛教徒,她带着真诚与信仰前往西藏,并极大的促进了当地经济、文化的繁荣昌盛。甚至传说布达拉宫、大昭寺、小昭寺的建立,都与文成公主有着千丝万缕的联系。 虽然这是一个引人入胜的故事,但茶叶贸易早在文成公主之前很多个世纪的汉代就已经存在,但故事足以表明,产自云南的普洱茶对于西藏来说,是多么的重要。

彝族

The Yi or Nuosuo ethnic group are historically known as Lolo, and number more than four million in Yunnan Province, most of whom are concentrated in an area hemmed in by the Jinsha and Yuanjiang rivers, and the Ailao and Wuliang mountains. Huaping, Ninglang and Yongsheng in western Yunnan form what is known as the Yunnan Lesser Liangshan Mountain area. The Yi's traditionally live in the mountainous areas, herding and hunting with susbsistance agriculture. The are likely descended from Tibetan and Naxi people and they practice a form of animism, led by a shaman priest known as the Bimaw. They still retain a few ancient religious texts written in their unique pictographic script, similar to the DOngba writing of the Naxi in Lijiang region. Their religion also contains many elements of Daoism and Buddhism. The Yi around Shaxi are scattered in Shaxi high mountain areas, mainly cultivating potatoes, corn, wild honey and Chinese traditional medicine such as ginseng. Vast forests stretch across the Yi areas, where Yunnan pine, masson pine, dragon spruce, Chinese pine and other timber trees, lacquer, tea, camphor, kapok and other trees of economic value grow in great numbers. The Yi of Shaxi can be seen in the valley particularly around market days. The women are distinguished by their brightly colored yellow, green and red clothing, often accompanied by ornate head dress.


   沙溪遗产

茶马古道

The Southern Silk Road, better known as as the Ancient Tea Horse Caravan Road predated its more famous northern counterpart by at least 300 years, The first written records of the route are from the Tang Dynasty (618-907), which was locally known as the Nanzhao Kingdom period (649-920), but trade had been taking place long before this time. From the hillside plantations of Simao and Xishuangbanna the muleteers brought pu'er tea; Burmese traders, often accompanied by Indian monks bought hides and animal bones, for use in in Chinese medicine. Salt, an essential commodity before the advent of refrigeration, came from Qiaohou, south of Shaxi, and from Yunlong across the mountains to the west, along with silver from Misha, and nearby Heqing. As well as felt, silk and precious stones came that most valuable of medicines, opium, perhaps Yunnan's largest cash crop at the time. All of these and more were traded with Tibetans for items such as musk, rare fungi and exotic medicines, found in the frigid mountains to the north. The main village of Sideng became an important staging post for the caravans, and the whole valley flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The market square became famous throughout the southwest, and attracted traders from a wide range of cultures that only enhanced the profitability of the Tea Horse Road. Hani from southern Yunnan brought tea and rich cloths. Naxi from Lijiang brought timber, Muslim Hui bought yak furs and horses. The wealth generated by all this trade is clearly evident in the ornate local architecture, with their imposing gate towers and spacious courtyards. At the center of all this, stands the Qing dynasty theater, directly across from the 400-year old temple, dedicated to as wide a range of faiths as the merchants and pilgrims that turned this remote village into a vibrant trading hub, which lasted well beyond the end of the Qing Dynasty (1614-1911).
The caravan routes finally died out around 60 years ago, when the newly formed People's Liberation Army began its advance on western Tibet, and requisitioned every pack animal they could find. The centuries old trade routes came to an abrupt end by 1950, when the communists' ban on private markets put the last nails in the coffin. The locals quickly reverted to agriculture and passed the last few decades in relative isolation.
More recently, the World Monument Fund added Shaxi's market square to its Watch List of 100 Most Endangered Sites in 2001. By this time squatters had taken over much of the village, and many of the buildings had decayed to the point of collapse. In 2002, the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Zürich (ETH) and the People's Government of Jianchuan County jointly established the Shaxi Rehabilitation Project (SRP) to protect and revitalize the cultural and natural heritage of Sideng Village and the Shaxi Valley. With USD1.3 million in funding from the World Monument Fund they hired a Swiss conservation expert Jacques Feiner, who had previously made his name at Yemen's old city of Sanaa, one of the earliest centers of population in human history. His approach has been to restore rather than rebuild, using traditional techniques and materials wherever possible. Apart from the restoring the temple and the stage, the entire market plaza was drained and relaid, which has led to a number of major awards, including a UNESCO Award of Distinction for cultural heritage preservation.
For those interested to explore more about the Tea Horse Road's history, culture and legacy, we highly recommend Peter Micic's blog, the Tea Horse Road project. Peter is a skilled translator and writer, with a passion for Chinese history in this part of the country. He explores old tree plantations, writes poems and follows the original sections of the Tea Horse Road to give readers a first hand experience of what it was like to travel with the ancient mule caravans. An excellent source of this storied route's visual history is the award-winning documentary Delamu, which follows one of the last muleteers through the rugged Nujiang region of Yunnan. Along the way are intimate portraits of the indiginous people who still live along the Tea Horse Road.

沙溪建筑

'白族崇尚白色,其建筑外墙大多以白色为主调。白族民居的主房一般是坐西向东或坐东向西,这与大理地处由北向南的横断山脉形成的山谷坝子的特点有关,东西房向可以依山傍水,又能很好的阻隔大风的侵袭。 白族民居的平面布局和组合形式一般有"一正两耳"、"两房一耳"、"三坊一照壁"、 "四合五天井"、"六合同春"和"走马转角楼"等。采用什么形式,由房主人的经济条件和家族大小、人口多寡所决定。白族民居的大门大都开在东北角上,门不能直通院子,必须用照壁遮挡,照壁的墙上一般写"福"、"寿"等寓意吉祥的文字。 白族一切建筑,包括普通民居,都离不开精美的雕刻和绘画装饰。木雕多用于建筑物的格子门、槎头、雀替、吊柱等部份。卷草、飞龙、蝙蝠、玉兔,各种动植物图案造型千变万化,运用自如。更有不少带象征意义的,如"金狮吊绣球"、" 麒麟望芭蕉"、"秋菊太平"等等情趣盎然的图案作品。白族木雕巧匠们还特别擅长作玲珑剔透的三至五层"透漏雕",多层次的山水人物、花鸟虫鱼都表现得栩栩如生。
"粉墙画壁"也是白族建筑装饰的一大特色。墙体的砖柱和贴砖都刷灰勾缝,墙心粉白,檐口彩画宽窄不同,饰有色彩相间的装饰带。以各种几何图形布置"花空"作花鸟、山水,书法等文人字画,表现出一种清新雅致的情趣。富于装饰的门楼可以说明白族建筑图案的一个综合表现。一般都采用殿阁造型,飞檐串角, 再以泥塑、木雕、彩画、石刻、大理石屏、凸花青砖、瓷器等组合成丰富多彩的立体图案,显得富丽堂皇,又不失古朴大方的整体风格。
白族很讲求住宅环境的优雅和整洁。多数人家的天井里一般都砌有花坛,种上几株山茶、 缅桂、丹桂、石榴、香椽等乔木花果树。花坛边沿或屋檐口放置兰花等盆花,种花爱花是白族的传统风尚。



   沙溪旅游信息

取款机
shaxi-bank-and-atm

There are two banks with ATMs in Shaxi town. As you head up the market street away from the old town, the road turns to the right and after a series of shops and small restaurants, you will see the Post Office on your right and just past it across the street is the 农村信用社 (Nóngcūn xìnyòng shè) or Rural Credit Cooperative. Look for the bright orange facade with the ATM up the steps next to the door. The 中国农业银行 (Zhōngguó nóngyè yínháng) Agricultural Bank of China ATM is closer to the big stone and waterfall that mark the entrance to the old town. Facing away from the steps, cross the main street and continue directly up the street ahead. The bank is about 30m up the street to your right on the corner of a small side street.

移动服务

As you head up the market street away from the old town, the road turns to the right and immediately across the street, on the same side as Xilu Restaurant, you will find a China Mobile shop. There are other shops selling mobile phones on the other side of the street but they may not be authorized dealers. All will have spare batteries and accessories.

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